Coastal path towards Cary Arms in Babbacombe, Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
Babbacombe, a suburb of Torquay, boasts one of the most breathtaking views in Devon. Perched atop a wooded cliff, it overlooks the vast Lyme Bay stretching towards East Devon and Portland Bill in Dorset.
For centuries, people have marvelled at this « romantic, rocky glen », as described by guidebooks two centuries ago. Ken Paterson, an 87-year-old local, enjoys a stroll along Babbacombe Downs with a companion.
He says: « Just write that she’s my lady friend, » The green stretch between Babbacombe Theatre and the cliff railway is his favourite spot. « It’s a lovely place – the best place in the world, » he declares, adding that he moved here in search of his dream woman, a quest that continues.
Ken claims to have been a goalkeeper for Arsenal in 1959, with plans to play for Torquay United that didn’t materialise. His companion agrees about the area’s charm, noting its popularity among dog walkers.
He suggests a walk from Cary Arms to Oddicombe Beach. When asked about potential issues like drug use or anti-social behaviour, she dismisses the notion, stating: « Nothing really. You never see any bad people here. », reports Devon Live.
Ken Paterson in Babbacombe, Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
Babbacombe, an essential cog in Torquay’s tourism machine, has consistently stayed in vogue. While some parts of Torquay beckon for rejuvenation, Babbacombe remains timeless with its theatre, the celebrated cliff railway, and the lavish Cary Arms holiday resort.
However, these man-made wonders pale in comparison to its natural spectacle: the spectacular coastline that steals the show.
Anecdotes abound in this vibrant corner, such as the one Ken shares about Bernard Manning, the infamous comic, who was barred from the Babbacombe Theatre not for his contentious humour, but rather for an uncouth act of relieving himself in the sink of his dressing room. Its debatable whether this event reflects on the character of Babbacombe.
Despite the evolving landscape of the tourist industry, Babbacombe seems impervious to significant change. Its polished image is free from overt signs of homelessness or public drug use, though they are likely present somewhere; nor does it indulge in gaudy shops or gaming arcades.
The true excitement derives from a vigorous walk along the Downs or unwinding in one of the many hotel bars overlooking the ocean.
The Babbacombe Hotel in Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
If retail therapy is more your scene, Reddenhill Road or nearby St Marychurch offers a wealth of independent shops and chic boutiques. Outside the esteemed Royal Hotel and Carvery, Richard, pint in hand, recalls his move from Newcastle in 1987: « I came here in 1987 from Newcastle. I can even remember the date.
« I had £80 in my pockets and no idea what I was going to do. It’s a classic case of seeing a place and falling in love with it. » This captivating locale isn’t just a hit with tourists it wins over hearts for life.
« I liked the openness of it all. Having lived in the city I just found it really pleasant. Life was slow but that was all right. What’s interesting is that when I first came down here they had advertisements in towns like Birmingham, Liverpool and Manchester saying if you’re going to be on the dole be on the dole here – Torquay.
« Torquay then was a very transient town. There didn’t seem to be many locals, it was bedsit land on Belgrave Road and Kents Road. There’s no doubt the town centre of Torquay has been neglected, but the problems here are just like every other seaside town. »
Dog-walker Carly Langley, out on the Downs, shares: « This area is special, » she says. « Just look around at those great views. I live in another part of Torquay and I can say this is much nicer. »
Babbacombe Downs in Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
She notes that during the summer, the area becomes bustling as the holiday season kicks into high gear. Events like the Babbacombe Fayre draw crowds to the Downs.
Bars and hotels dot the main seaside street – Babbacombe Downs Road. The most striking among them is the 82-room Babbacombe Hotel.
David Feasey, the general manager, observes that despite it being an overcast February afternoon, months away from the peak holiday season, the cafe is bustling and the car park is full. David asserts that regardless of the time of year, the hotel maintains its popularity.
« We are busy all year round, » he highlighted. « Every week we have three coaches arriving with guests on Monday and they stay through the week. It’s incredible how popular we are.
« They primarily hail from Wales and the Midlands. Our non-residents take pleasure in the cafe and relish our Sunday roasts as well. From a business standpoint, we’re thriving. Plenty of people savour the promenade and the locality has much to offer. I’m confident in expecting a bustling summer season. »
David Feasey, general manager, Babbacombe Hotel in Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
He pointed out two leading attractions that bring tourists flocking: Bygones, a historical family favourite situated in St Marychurch, and Kents Cavern, set in the adjacent Wellswood.
Currently, there’s some buzz around the old Norcliffe Hotel undergoing renovation work up the street. Yet apart from that, there’s little construction activity.
The philosophy here seems to be, if Babbacombe isnt broken, don’t fix it.
Babbacombe’s charm as a vacation hotspot dates back to the 19th century when prior to affluence and urban growth, locals earned their living fishing the coastal waters.
Its most notorious figure is John « Babbacombe » Lee, originating from Abbotskerswell. Notable for surviving the executioner’s noose not simply once but thrice, Lee gained notoriety following his conviction for murdering his employer at Babbacombe Bay.
Coastal path between Oddicombe Beach and Cary Arms, Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
Post-exoneration, he embraced the life of a criminal celebrity, eventually concluding his days in America.
An intriguing historical tidbit is that Emma Keyse, the victim of Lee, was instrumental in preventing a gas works from being established in Babbacombe Bay. The project was relocated to Paignton instead, altering the trajectory of both areas.
Fast-forwarding to 2006, Babbacombe experienced a significant uplift when property tycoon Peter De Savary acquired the Cary Arms. At the time, there were murmurs about Torquay being « stuck in the 1970s » and losing sight of its original allure as a holiday spot its breathtaking coastline, replete with hidden smugglers’ coves and beaches.
The revamped Cary Arms sparked a resurgence. Since then, several millions of pounds have been poured into transforming the old pub and neighbouring cottages into a luxurious five-star resort.
Dany Richford, the sales and marketing manager, gave me a tour of the snug bar and guest lodgings.
Customers in the Cary Arms in Babbacombe, Torquay (Image: DevonLive)
« A lot of guests are London-based, » she reveals. « But they come from all over the UK and internationally as well. American guests are always intrigued by the connections to Agatha Christie and the historic sites.
« In the summer months, watersports like paddleboarding and kayaking take centre stage. The scenery here is, of course, stunning. »
There are few sights more spectacular than affluent Americans splashing their cash. It would be fascinating to quantify their contribution to Torquay’s tourism economy.
The holiday season in Babbacombe for 2024 is set to kick off in May, with a walking festival that will see thousands traverse the rugged trail from the Cary Arms to Oddicombe Beach and further. The coastal path to Oddicombe meanders along the shoreline beneath towering cliffs and past colossal rocks, remnants of a bygone era.
This stunning sight, like many of Torbay’s natural wonders, is often overlooked, much to our detriment.
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