Incredible A road rated 90% runs almost entire length of country’s coast | UK | Travel

It’s rare for one road to have such incredible views, world class beaches, beautiful villages and excellent restaurants all en route. This one has all that, and you can throw in two national parks and some of the UK’s most formidable castles too. It’s no wonder that it has been named the most under-rated road trip anywhere in Europe.

It will come as little surprise to those who have driven along the A487 that it is held in such high regard. A main trunk route for most of its length (including a section where it multiplexes with the equally breathtaking A470 – the country’s longest road), the 280km road runs from Haverfordwest in the south of Wales to Menai Bridge in the north, incorporating miles and miles of stunning coastal and countryside views.

Along the road’s journey are beautiful places to stay, gorgeous villages, lovely market towns and renowned food venues (including one of the UK’s best and most-decorated restaurants). Despite its length and significance, it is predominantly a single-carriageway – although the road has been upgraded in numerous places.

The Pembrokeshire section of the road was named Europe’s most under-rated road trip by car service Vixa from the AA, who found that 90% of those who had reviewed it gave it five stars. But despite that, it had a very low popularity rating on Instagram and Google, making it a largely undiscovered gem by those outside the area. As a result, it came well ahead of routes in Scotland, France, Northern Ireland and Spain in the ranking.

But the A487’s appeal isn’t contained to Pembrokeshire and reaches all the way to the north coast of Wales. Following the road northwest from Haverfordwest will quickly take drivers into Newgale. Along the way, a slight detour before Newgale can take in the impressive sight of Roch Castle, now the site of a luxury hotel. This magnificent landmark was built in the late twelfth century by Norman knight Adam de Rupe and has historic royal connections.

Newgale is home to what is touted by many as one of the biggest and best beaches in Wales. The two-mile-long stretch of pebble-backed sand has mass appeal – it is popular with families, surfers and even dogs. There are some restrictions for canines with furry friends not permitted in the central third of the beach between May 1 and September 30. However, dogs are welcomed on the northern and southern sections of the beach throughout the year. They are also allowed on the entire beach outside of the summer months.

Highly rated Newgale campsite offers budget-friendly accommodation on the seafront with reviews praising the free wifi and hot showers. During the drive, the A487 descends to beach level as it passes behind dunes before offering commuters glimpses of the ocean. The road is so low that it is sometimes flooded by the ocean during stormy weather.

From Newgale, drivers will head towards St Davids, the smallest city in the UK where they can see the cathedral named after the patron saint of the country who is also the town’s namesake. The road runs through the centre of the city, named one of the UK’s best places to spend 24 hours, before it begins the journey up the west coast of the country.

The city is a culinary delight with five restaurants achieving a 4.5/5 or above on Trip Advisor including Blas Restaurant at Twr y Felin Hotel which was awarded three AA Rosettes.

After departing St Davids, the A487 heads inland before embracing the sea at Fishguard 30 minutes later. Fishguard is a hub for water sports including paddleboarding and kayaking around the harbour area. The town is also well-known for its walking and hiking trails including the Marine Path – a scenic coastal walk offering breathtaking views of Lower Town Fishguard and the Preseli Hills. Nearby Pembrokeshire Coastal Path also provides amazing sea views.

Upon departing the town, the road climbs until it showcases views over Fishguard Harbour. The road traverses around Cardigan Bay as it heads northwards around the waters of Cardigan Bay. It skirts the northern section of the Preseli Hills before passing through the small village of Newport, a beautiful village with very few tourists but the « world’s best pub ». A few miles further north and it reaches the charming market town of Cardigan, which is an easy exit to the left for anyone wanting to visit the independent shops, restaurant and medieval castle on offer. It’s been called « uniquely amazing ».

This section of the road from Fishguard to Cardigan is located within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Britain’s only coastal National Park – designated as such in 1952 – features dramatic coastlines, rugged cliff faces and golden beaches.

Just off the main road northwards from Cardigan is the stunning Mwnt, which is easily one of Wales’ most beautiful (but not busy) beaches, with a postcard-perfect small white chapel perched on the clifftop above it. 

At the tiny hamlet of Synod Inn, vehicles will cross the A486 and a much-improved drive to Carmarthen is available for a nice (but very long) detour. Possibly the oldest town in Wales, Carmarthen offers historians a fascinating look into the past as it is built upon the site of a Roman settlement. In more recent times, the town was the site of a prisoner-of-war camp during World War Two and a few remnants of this time remain including a couple of trenches. You can also head to the pretty university town of Lampeter.

A left turn here takes you to the much closer New Quay. It’s not as famous as its Cornish namesake but it has a lot going for it, including more sandy beaches, and is a big favourite for staycations. 

After continuing along the A487 north, drivers will reach the coastal town of Aberaeron. It boasts a beautiful county hall and was a hub for steamships until the 1920s. It is noted that the architecture here is unusual for this part of rural Wales – mostly constructed around the principal town square. The square, which was built around 1830, and the harbour nearby features colourful houses which are highlighted against what can be rough Welsh weather throughout the year.

Aberaeron punches well above its weight for places to eat. The food at the Harbourmaster and Y Seler is particularly superb (Harbourmaster is also a wonderful, homely hotel). 

After leaving Aberaeron the A487 maintains proximity to the coast as it meanders towards Aberystwyth. The university town – also on the coast – contains a myriad of pubs and a cable railway system that runs up a cliff. It is also home to the National Library of Wales and a ruined castle which visitors are allowed to wander through. Slightly to the east is Devil’s Bridge, a spectacular site said to have been forged by the devil himself when he was outwitted by a local woman. 

Following the A487, the next destination is the hamlet of Glandyfi, where the road runs alongside the river and the railway into the former Welsh capital of Machynlleth, one of only two UNESCO Biosphere Reserve sites in the UK – recognised for its outstanding natural beauty and ecological diversity. It is also famous for the fact that Robert Plant wrote the lyrics Stairway to Heaven at Bron-Yr-Aur cottage just outside the town. 

Five miles southwest of Machynlleth is the renowned restaurant, Ynyshir, one of the UK’s best restaurants. It has been awarded two Michelin stars (the first restaurant in Wales to achieve this feat) and also has five rosettes to its name. It offers rooms for anyone wanting an overnight stay. 

Leaving Machynlleth, the A487 then crosses over the river at Dovey Bridge – a 200-year-old, Grade-II listed piece of architecture which heralds the start of Snowdonia National Park. From here, the A487 runs through thick woodland up the Dulas Valley, with woodland walks and picnic areas available if you want to stop. 

Some of this stretch can suffer from rockfalls from time to time and drivers are advised to keep a look out. The road runs parallel to the river leading back to Talyllyn, and there’s a parking spot halfway up to admire the view. A gentle slope then flows down to a straight section at Hafod Oer leading up to Cross Foxes.

The Cross Foxes Inn will now be seen as the A487 passes by it. The Mid-Welsh town of Dolgellau is soon reached as the road continues northwards. The town is the main base for climbers wanting to attempt Cadair Idris and Mynydd Moel which are both visible from Dolgellau. 

As the road traverses into the north part of the drive – the scenery is quite different from the coastal offerings of the previously driven southern section. The drive soon reaches Trawsfynydd – home of a former nuclear power station – a peculiar site choice for it considering it is located in Snowdonia. 

After a bit more of a drive, the road heads west through the Vale of Ffestiniog – at times passing alongside the famous Ffestiniog railway towards Porthmadog. The road climbs higher before it swings northwest near Tremadog. 

The last part of the journey heads towards Caernarfon, famous for its medieval fortress, one of Edward I’s so-called « Iron Ring » to subdue the Welsh and also the site of Prince Charles’ investiture as Prince of Wales. From Caernarfon, the road continues towards Bangor alongside the Menai Strait and its railway as the road becomes non-primary. The A487 terminates soon after with Bangor lying to the right – while to the left sits Thomas Telford’s amazing Menai Suspension Bridge. 

You are so spoilt for choice along this route. Restaurants in St David’s include The Really Wild Emporium, which serves up Welsh dishes like sweet chestnut lavercake with capers, beetroot-cured salmon and local cod. Grain is a pizza and craft beer place where Italian toppings are given a Welsh touch. A little fancier, Blas (it means « taste » in Welsh) serves starters like Solva crab with chicken skin and mains like Welsh lamb, just in case you were in any doubt about where you were. 

For a place of its size, Aberaeron has several places to eat, including excellent food full of flavour at the Harbourmaster and Y Seler. Pizza Tipi in Cardigan serves brilliant food with waterside tables. You’ll also find the award-winning and popular Crwst bakery and cafe in the town. 

The creme de la creme of restaurants on this route is Ynyshir, which is among the finest anywhere in the United Kingdom. The restaurant, run by Gareth Ward, has two Michelin stars. It’s set in a beautiful, almost hidden, location off the beaten track and has rooms to stay in. It’s an idyllic place but standards this high do not come cheap.

The joy of this route is the huge range of places to stay, to suit all budgets. There are several campsites in this part of the world, including the popular Newgale campsite. 

There are also lots of small and independent hotels, including Twr y Felin in St Davids, Harbourmaster in Aberaeron and Gwesty Cymru in Aberystwyth. There are small hotels, Airbnbs and hostels throughout Snowdonia too, as well as on its fringes.