An iconic British food is set to disappear after its manufacturer confirmed production of it has ceased. Gentleman’s Relish – officially referred to as Patum Peperium – is a spiced version of potted anchovies. It has been a staple of kitchen cupboards for many decades, after being created in 1828 by John Osborn. Recently, creation of the paste has been overseen by parent firm AB World Foods, which suggested it no longer has a wide enough appeal.
Gentleman’s Relish has been a favourite of famous Britons – including Nigella Lawson, who listed it as one of the 10 foods she could not live without, and Jessica Mitford, who chose the food as her one luxury item in her episode of BBC radio programme Desert Island Discs, in 1977.
Earlier, early 19th century naval hero Admiral Sir Sydney Smith said Patum Peperium was « the most delicious breakfast-table accompaniment ». Victorian food writer, Isabella Beeton, recommended it in her Book of Household Management.
Ian Fleming, in his James Bond novel, For Your Eyes Only, wrote that Mrs. Havelock ate a Patum Peperium sandwich.
Evelyn Waugh, in his novel Vile Bodies, described a luxurious breakfast featuring « hot buttered toast and honey and gentleman’s relish and a chocolate cake, a cherry cake, a seed cake and a fruit cake and some tomato sandwiches and pepper and salt and currant bread and butter ».
AB World Foods told the Spectator magazine: « We can confirm that after some 20 years as custodian of the Gentleman’s Relish brand, we are no longer making Patum Peperium.
« While we recognise that this Victorian relish has a niche and loyal following, it sadly does not have wider commercial appeal and, despite our best efforts, retailer distribution has dwindled.
« With Gentleman’s Relish no longer commercially viable and unable to secure a buyer for the brand, we regrettably stopped production earlier this year. »
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