I visited paradise island where sun always shines — it reminded me of Devon | Beach Holidays | Travel

Driving on the left, along narrow, winding roads lined with lush vegetation, past red telephone and post boxes marked with the insignia of George V, I could have been forgiven for thinking I was in rural Devon.

Then I rounded a curve revealing a perfect sandy beach, complete with palm trees and crystal clear azure waters that’s straight out of a Caribbean holiday brochure.

This is Bermuda – an archipelago of 181 islands atop ancient volcanoes in the Atlantic Ocean – which has strong cultural and historical links to both the UK and the West Indies. It is Britain’s oldest Overseas Territory and its year-round tropical climate, vibrant culture and stunning scenery make it a dream destination.

This wasn’t quite the scene that greeted me on day one of my Bermuda adventure as rain, prompted by Hurricane Milton 1,000 miles away in Florida, lashed down over the town of St George. Steeped in tales of shipwrecks, rum runners, slave traders and pirates, this was Bermuda’s original capital until that title was bestowed on Hamilton in 1815.

First settled in 1612, many of the old colonial buildings still survive, including the State House – once the home of Parliament – and St Peter’s, the oldest surviving Anglican church still in use outside the UK. Despite the allure of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was a relief to escape the wind and rain by heading for lunch at a nearby restaurant which served a fusion of Asian and Mediterranean dishes, which we enjoyed as we watched the weather improve through the panoramic windows with sweeping views of Achilles Bay below.

Rain never lasts long in Bermuda and the sun soon emerged bringing with it a vivid palette of blues and greens en route to our hotel, the Rosewood, overlooking Castle Harbour. A haven of understated luxury, the Rosewood comes with an 18-hole golf course, the largest private beach on the island and manages to hit that sweet spot between classy elegance and homely informality.

No chocolates-on-the-pillow welcome, but mini rum cakes and a bottle of the local Gosling’s Black Seal rum instead. You can chill beside the Palm Court Pool with views over wooded slopes down to Harrington Sound, work out at the gym or have an invigorating massage at the calming Sense spa.

Being surrounded by hundreds of miles of ocean, seafood straight from catch to plate is a Bermudian staple. Dinner at the Rosewood’s Beach Club featured shared platters of calamari, tiger shrimp, tuna ceviche and a carpaccio of thinly-sliced wahoo that was so fresh and zesty my colleagues ordered a second helping, all served by waiters in traditional Bermuda shorts and knee socks. But it was in a more humble setting that we found seafood nirvana. Ask any taxi driver what the national dish is and they’ll tell you it’s the fish sandwich. The name Woodys kept coming up so a visit was non-negotiable.

Ordered through a tiny serving hatch and consumed on benches overlooking the Great Sound, this was a two-inch thick full meal between slices of raisin bread. Succulent chunks of snapper, slatherings of coleslaw, a little cheese and the kick of hot sauce were a ­transcendent combination, washed down with local Barritt’s ginger beer.

Adding to the down-home vibe were a collection of chickens – found wild all over Bermuda – waiting beady-eyed for any morsels.

In between all the eating and drinking, the fascinating National Museum offers a chance to immerse yourself in Bermuda’s exotic past. Set in a huge fort with impressive views over the Royal Dockyard and the cruise ships berthed at King’s Wharf, it’s a great place to while away a couple of hours learning about the heroics of the early settlers.

Many treasures recovered from wrecks are on show, along with seafaring artefacts from centuries past. Right in the centre of Bermuda is the capital Hamilton. The harbour is fringed by low-rise pastel-coloured buildings along Front Street, just across from a plaque marking one corner of the Bermuda Triangle.

Upscale boutiques rub shoulders with souvenir and handcraft outlets, rum shops and T-shirt vendors, but you’ll need very deep pockets beyond the smallest of gifts. Talking of affluence, pop into the lobby of the Hamilton Princess hotel where paintings by Picasso, Warhol, Banksy and Magritte line the walls. We also squeezed in lunch across the road at Huckleberry in the gorgeous Rosedon Hotel – imagine a country mansion transported from the US Deep South – where the salted caramel, dark chocolate and hazelnut tart was the star of the show.

Bermuda is shaped like a fish hook, 21 miles long and just 1.75 miles across at its widest point so you are never more than walking distance from the sea. The urge to get out on the turquoise water is overwhelming as you drive around the island and a snorkelling trip is a great way to explore the coral reef surrounding Bermuda on which so many hopes of invasion met a watery grave.

Six miles out of Dockyard, our skipper, Tory of KS Watersports, anchored up at Blue Cut Reef. We swam out over the Montana which went down in December 1863, and the wreck of the Constellation (1943) in 30ft of water as shoals of tropical fish flitted across the bow of the Montana and in and out of the submarine landscape of coral.

Home for the second half of our trip was the Cambridge Beaches resort, set on a 30-acre peninsula.

Its 87 pink cottages, four private beaches and laid-back charm have been enticing visitors since 1923, and with its panoramic views, rustic character and friendly staff you feel instantly at home. You could easily stay here and never leave the resort – there are tennis courts, a gym and indoor pool, a watersports centre, spa and several great places to eat.

Personal favourite was the Sunken Harbor Club overlooking Mangrove Bay. To a soundtrack of tiny tree frogs calling, you can watch the sun go down beyond the yachts and small boats, cold drink in hand as the heat of the day dissipates, while enjoying superb local cuisine. Away from the hotel, Blû is ideal for a special occasion. A fusion of American and Italian cooking, the menu includes superb sushi, melt-in-the-mouth lamb shank, pasta, ribs, tacos, plus desserts that were works of art.

It’s elegant and classy with a strict collars-for-men dress code, as I found out to my cost, having to don a shirt of shame provided by the bar staff. A small price to pay. Our trip concluded with a lazy catamaran sunset cruise up the coast, relaxing into a tropical evening haze… although maybe that was the complimentary rum swizzles.

Yes Bermuda is expensive, but it’s stunningly beautiful, friendly, safe and the sun (almost) always shines.

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