I visited beautiful seaside town that’s miles away from the sea | UK | Travel

Where can you find a seaside town that is no longer by the sea?

In East Sussex, of course.

Once a coastal town, with the history of raiders to prove it, Rye is now miles from the sea, thanks to coastal erosion elsewhere in the UK that has drawn the ocean further and further away from this idyllic town.

While it may no longer be a seaside town in strictly geographical terms, Rye is still a beautiful and interesting place that retains many of the salty charms of a settlement forged by the waves and wind.

Having never visited the town before, I was unsure just what to expect on my arrival in Rye. The hype surrounding the place suggested I should expect a lot.

The inland town was named one of the UK’s best seside towns by Which?, while Queen Elizabeth I was so charmed by a visit in 1573 that she granted it the title « Rye Royal ».

A lot to live up to then.

My first port of call was to check into the Mermaid Inn, where I would be staying for two nights, before heading out to explore.

The inn itself is one of England’s oldest, with the building dating back to 1420, when it was rebuilt after a fire that demolished all but its still-standing cellars, which were built in 1156. The current owners are clearly proud of the hotel’s history, with paintings of historical figures dotting the walls – I counted at least four Anne Boleyns.

A number of the rooms are named for figures important in Rye’s history. After checking in, I was taken to room 17, named after Thomas Kingsmill. The likely local lad was second in command of the infamous Hawkhurst Gang, which used the hotel as a base for its smuggling in the 1700s.

The hotel’s numerous secret passages were used by the gang to evade law enforcement and to store their smuggled goods. Sadly for those with an appetite for tight spaces, these tunnels are now blocked.

It’s not just the name of the room that links room 17 to the Hawkhurst Gang. The wife of Thomas Grey, one of the gang members, is said to haunt the room, and other rooms are thought to be haunted by gang members themselves.

My first afternoon and evening were spent wandering the village streets and browsing through the antique and gift shops, which made up the vast majority of the town’s storefronts.

As someone who loves second-hand shopping, I was delighted to stumble upon two dress agencies, Through Your Wardrobe and Reloved by Rye. I even purchased a pair of boots from the latter, and will definitely be following them both online to keep an eye out for any more interesting stock.

On my second day in Rye, I opted to visit the more tourist-y attractions, first heading to the Rye Castle Museum, which, as a history lover, was certainly a highlight of my visit.

The museum features the Ypres Tower, Medieval Garden, and Women’s Tower, and showcases much of Rye’s history, including its use as a prison. At just £5 to enter, it’s a rather affordable option when visiting the town, and children under 16 go free (provided they are accompanied by an adult).

Inside the towers, you can read about Rye’s history while trying on replica helmets, which add a touch of fun to the trip and are perfect for those who perhaps aren’t super interested in the history. There was also a space where visitors could try lifting a longbow, although this sadly wasn’t there during my visit.

Once in the mood for a little education, the next obvious port of call is the Rye Heritage Centre, which is home to the Rye Town Model. The model is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, and has been updated to include light and sound.

This is a massive draw for anyone who loves a model village, especially as it offers a high-tech interpretation of the classic form.

Through projection, sound and special effects, it explores the people, events and forces that shaped the town over centuries — from French raids and great storms to smugglers, sailors and royal visits. The town is hand-built to a 1:100 scale, showcasing Victorian Rye and bringing its 700-year history to life with dramatic sound and light effects. Not at all a bad way to spend £5.

The heritage centre also features an exhibition on the town’s history of smuggling and a recreated Victorian pier arcade, where you can enjoy some genuine vintage penny arcade machines.

There are plenty of options for food in Rye, and during my visit, I tucked into delicious meals at the Mermaid Inn, The Queen’s Head Pub, Simon the Pieman, and The Cobbles Tearoom.

Of course, a trip to the « seaside » would not be complete without a stop off at the chippy. Although the salty waves might have long retreated, Marino’s, The Ferry Inn, and The Strand are all on hand to deliver a delicious taste of the sea.

Book it

The Mermaid Inn has 31 unique rooms, each one is named after a person from the history of the Inn and Rye, costing from £129. Visit www.mermaidinn.com to book.