‘I stayed at hidden country hotel — I was in love the moment I saw it’ | UK | Travel

There isn’t anything more fitting for a winter getaway than a hidden country retreat. We all enjoy escaping the hustle and bustle of our daily lives, and where better than a luxury countryside getaway.

WalesOnline Property Editor, Joanne Ridout, treated her and her family to an unforgettable 36-hour stay in one of the country’s very best hotels. She called the stay « delightful » and was wowed by all the lavish features she came across. In her own words, Joanne has detailed why her trip was so special and how she fell in love the moment she saw the hotel…

As we passed through the magnificent wrought iron gates and gently made our way into a concealed valley nestled within the rolling Pembrokeshire landscape, it felt as though we were being whisked away to a clandestine and magical haven of tranquillity, far removed from the clamour and pressures of daily existence.

Throughout the following 36 hours, this sensation of retreat, serenity, and complete immersion in an extraordinary setting persisted following an unforgettable stay at one of Wales’ finest countryside hotels for myself and my family.

As our vehicle meandered down the peaceful drive, a glimpse of the historic structure appeared through the foliage, instantly creating a visual greeting that sparked a surge of anticipation – I was certain our single-night visit to Grove of Narberth would prove exceptional.

Yet this establishment hadn’t always inspired such elevated expectations for a memorable visit; at one stage during its history, it teetered dangerously close to embarking upon a course towards abandonment – a world apart from the luxurious rural sanctuary it has transformed into, reports Wales Online.

A concise chronicle of the residence encompasses three distinctive periods – the main dwelling was likely constructed in the 1680s by Daniel Poyer, who came into possession of the estate. Subsequently, around 1874, Arts and Crafts architect John Pollard Seddon undertook comprehensive renovations of the Jacobean residence, incorporating elements such as an impressive entrance hall, fresh staircase, reading room, decorative fireplaces, and elaborate woodwork.

But more recently a period of abandonment between proprietors meant the once magnificent estate deteriorated into a dilapidated property. Fortunately, current owners Neil and Zoe Kedward made the same journey down the drive and saw the building glimpse at them through the vegetation, they too became enchanted and the structure was set on a path to restoration recovery and transformation into the breathtaking building it is today.

Since then the hotel has secured an remarkable number of accolades including Independent Hotel of the Year in 2024, a Michelin Key and AA 5 Red Stars and 4 Rosettes for its restaurant, and top positions in TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards including the UK’s number one Small Hotel in 2023 and number three Boutique Hotel in 2025 and number three in the Top 50 Boutique Hotels UK in 2025 – and that’s just a handful of them.

We left the car and strolled up to the imposing, carved wooden front door whilst appreciating the garden terrace adorned with strings of outdoor lights overlooking the lake. I believed the terrace would be a remarkable spot to savour an afternoon tea or evening drink in the sunshine or beneath a starlit sky.

But when we visited it was a grey and miserable rainy and blustery December day, but the conditions could not diminish our excitement at our upcoming stay at this gorgeous property. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by a striking square entrance hall featuring a central table arrangement – being just a week before Christmas, this focal point was wonderfully festive.

I subsequently spoke with a staff member refreshing the exhibit who revealed that nearly every element in all of the stunning Christmas nature-themed arrangements throughout the property were crafted using greenery and materials sourced from the estate’s own garden and grounds.

The establishment proved a delightful venue for embracing the Christmas atmosphere. To our right lay a spacious lounge boasting a central Christmas tree and an impressive fireplace, yet it was the lounge to our left, featuring original timber wall panelling and an absolutely exquisite period fireplace, that became my preferred spot to pause and subsequently unwind.

It felt intimate and inviting, a sitting room that had undoubtedly throughout the decades hosted and charmed visitors from the property’s days as a private residence through to its present incarnation as a magnificent countryside hotel.

Skirting past the historic staircase, we discovered the reception area situated in a back room and, consistent with numerous features of the hotel, it presented a hospitable environment – no imposing, formal reception counter and harsh lighting but rather a comfortable reception chamber with conventional furnishings and showcase cabinets that simply happened to accommodate two laptops and two cheerful staff members stationed behind them.

We harboured slight concerns before our arrival that the hotel might be ‘too posh’ for us, given that we typically stay in a Premier Inn when travelling to watch football or attend a concert, but from the instant we stepped through the door we felt the house welcomed us completely with its distinctive atmosphere and the team couldn’t have been more accommodating.

A hotel’s personnel can either enhance or detract from a peaceful visit to a remarkable destination in my view and at Grove of Narberth I cannot commend them sufficiently, warm and informed individuals who radiated the affection and enthusiasm for the property that originates from the proprietors at the pinnacle of the workforce hierarchy and evidently flows downward.

They spoke in gentle tones and appeared to float through the premises invisibly, contributing to the mood of tranquillity and serenity – until you required assistance, and then they would materialise instantly.

During our entire visit the personnel seemed to possess a natural ability to sense when you might fancy another cup of tea and when you simply wished to remain undisturbed, beside the hearth, absorbing the sound of logs crackling and wind howling beyond the closed shutters.

Being nearly as passionate about tea as about property, I naturally always accepted the offer of tea and when it arrived there was also an assortment of delicious treats to go alongside it. We ascended the charmingly squeaky staircase to be escorted to our accommodation.

We occupied the Henry Signature Suite and absolutely nothing could have truly readied us for how inviting yet opulent it proved to be, featuring an array of textured fabrics, timber panelling, striking furnishings and artistic pieces, alongside a scheme of cosy creams and neutral tones.

The refreshment bar was the most extensive I’d encountered, featuring various teas plus within the concealed refrigerator beneath lay a bottle of wine, Welsh beer, fizzy drinks and apple juice, milk and some nibbles as well.

The décor throughout the three-room suite represented a refined and triumphant blend of heritage connections through standout traditional pieces and the magnificently restored Arts and Crafts fireplace, yet within a contemporary setting.

No flowery wallpaper or quaint country manor styling, but rather an elegant collection of rooms that, in my view, achieved the perfect equilibrium for a premium stay in a historical countryside residence. This is epitomised, I believe, by the absurdly comfortable king-size bed – a four-poster design but with a more streamlined, understated and contemporary aesthetic.

The entrance swung open and the sitting area was the initial space to discover, boasting a comfortable sofa that subsequently transformed into a bed, two armchairs and even our personal Christmas tree positioned in the corner. There was, naturally, a television providing an excellent selection of channels including Sky Sports, though we hadn’t travelled here to engage in activities we could pursue at home – this getaway was about disconnecting, not connecting.

The walls featured delicate panelling that formed a perfect setting for the arrangement of ceramics which provided focal points of visual appeal whilst not detracting from the overall aesthetic and atmosphere of the suite.

Yet this was a suite designed to delight all the senses; beyond simply the dual aspect vistas across the magnificent manicured gardens to the undulating countryside that embraces the estate, beyond merely the calming and opulent décor – our sense of smell was indulged as well.

Stepping into the bathroom proved a visual delight that boasted a breathtaking, roll-top bath painted in an earthy hue, a twin basin unit, and separate enclosed shower tucked away at the rear of the room, but it was the fragrance that remained the most unforgettable element of the space.

A selection of Goodwash Company bathroom amenities awaited use and the bath salts particularly represented a sumptuous enhancement to the collection – precious little remained in the dish by the time we departed the following morning!

And indeed, I did surrender to the aroma and indulged in some hand cream as the range is obtainable for purchase at reception.

The wardrobe within the suite, which also contained a vanity table and hairdryer, enticed us into slipping on the plush dressing gowns and slide-on slippers that awaited within – at this moment we truly felt we were staying in a luxurious countryside hotel. The staff informed us that each of the en-suite rooms and suites within the main hotel differs in period character and décor whilst they also possess a visual harmony towards an overall signature ‘look’.

Some returning guests prefer to stay in the same room and some, as Goldilocks surely would, enjoy trying a new room every time they visit.

There is more to Grove of Narberth than the main house though, as the site also boasts beautifully converted outbuildings that provide private places to stay within the grounds including the Longhouse, Poyer’s Cottage, and Herb Cottages.

After unwinding in our room for a while, testing out the bath and the shower which were both soothing and invigorating, we prepared for dinner – a much anticipated visit to experience the seven-course fine dining menu created by award-winning chef Douglas Balish in The Fernery restaurant.

I dithered about a bit, not knowing what to wear. It was Christmas time and I had earlier seen some ladies going into the hotel’s other restaurant looking a bit glitzy so some sparkle was chosen but actually it appeared from observing the other diners when we arrived at the Fernery that smart casual was absolutely fine.

We were welcomed at the bar with beverages before being escorted to our table. Fernery perhaps epitomises the hotel – inviting with enduring and refined understated décor featuring a unique flair.

The venue boasted a neutral canvas that highlighted wall art and, naturally, a constant exhibition of ferns, whether depicted on the walls or forming part of the breathtaking centrepiece arrangement.

The ambience was soothing and unpretentious, the ambient music was calming and unobtrusive, and it provided a pleasant setting for conversation and laughter, particularly with the tables spaced sufficiently apart to create the sense of your own private dining enclave.

The personnel, and there were numerous, remained attentive and well-informed, enthusiastically explaining what extraordinary presentation of gourmet cuisine was about to materialise before us at each course of the meal.

From lobster tail to venison, oyster to wasabi, every dish of premium tasting fare burst with flavour and texture; a feast for the eyes that transformed into a culinary revelation – I might never manage to return to a Big Mac again!

Upon the table sat a card displaying a map of Wales indicating where most ingredients originated, emphasising the philosophy of utilising regional and fresh produce wherever feasible, with some even cultivated on-site in the hotel’s garden. The hotel can equally entice a visit for guests and non-guests at Artisan Rooms Brasseries which offers seasonal fare, set lunches, Sunday roasts and afternoon teas in an inviting atmosphere, with alfresco terrace dining available during the warmer months.

There are also hamper packages available to order as your delightful culinary companion whilst discovering the 26 acres of grounds, plus an extensive beverage selection in the lounge bar that features an outstanding array of Welsh sourced drinks. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here.

Following a restful night’s slumber that made us despise the morning alarm when it sounded, the scrumptious breakfast awaiting us more than compensated for having to depart the suite.

The inviting breakfast room gazed out over the rear garden terrace with views into the Artisan Rooms Brasseries and the absolutely delicious ‘Bore Da Good morning breakfast appeared appetising with an excellent variety of food using, naturally, locally sourced produce and ingredients.

To begin there was an assortment of pastries, fruits and yoghurts, cereals and porridge, and even a flute of champagne. For the main breakfast feast we selected the traditional breakfast that featured bacon, sausage, mushroom, egg, homemade beans, tomato and black pudding, but alternative choices included crumpet with an array of savoury toppings, smoked haddock omelette and eggs benedict.

The property exudes heritage, the secluded setting is magnificent, the cuisine is extraordinarily delectable, but it’s the team that transforms a visit to Grove of Narberth into the premier countryside hotel experience in my view.

Depending on when you book and the time of year a one-night stay in the Henry Suite costs between £233 to £442 per night, with other suites and rooms available at a lower rate, check out the hotel’s website here. The seven course fine dining menu we experienced costs £145 per person, but menus for all food offerings can be found on the hotel’s fernery restaurant website here.

After one final cup of tea beside the fire in the cosy nook, it was regrettably time to pack our belongings and leave, returning to the bustling and hectic urban environment.

However, we departed feeling revitalised and brimming with seasonal joy, and we would certainly wish to come back again. I would relish discovering the property and grounds throughout different seasons – springtime blooms, summer warmth, autumnal hues – and create additional treasured moments at Grove of Narberth, a truly remarkable destination.