I’ve been hiking for 30 years — this little-known walk is one you must do | UK | Travel

If you’re looking to shake off the malaise of winter, few things do it better than getting out into the fresh air. And the UK has plenty of that. Its abundance of countryside and wide open spaces make it a walker’s paradise.

Its regularly-changing geography also means you can have drastically different experiences without having to travel far at all –  for example, in Wales you can go from the flat wetlands of Gwent to the rolling lush fields of the Vale of Glamorgan, the urban parks of Cardiff, the barren Cambrian uplands, the monumental peaks of Eryri and the coastal cliffs of Pembrokeshire, all within a country just 60 miles wide at its narrowest point.

I’ve walked in them all but this particular walk takes place in the fans of Carmarthenshire in the western reaches of Bannau Brycheiniog, one of the remotest places in the country. It takes in two glacial lakes, miles of ridges that loom over sheer drops and views that are, quite simply, stunning. You can make it as short or as long, as easy or as challenging, as you like. And it even comes with its own legend.

The circular walk I do taking in both Llyn y Fan Fach and Llyn y Fan Fawr is 9.7 miles (15.6km), fairly challenging and involves 2,350 feet (712 metres) of climbing. It takes 3 hours and 45 minutes. You can cut that in half by doing a smaller circular walk just around Llyn y Fan Fach or cut it down to less than 90 minutes if you simply walk to Llyn y Fan Fach from the makeshift car park, where the walk begins, and back.

Heading up from the Llyn y Fan Fach car park, which you’ll find on sat-nav, the first section of the walk involves a gradual climb along a well-travelled gravel path up to the first lake, Llyn y Fan Fach. This is a simple walk alongside the Sawdde river of around 1.3 miles and 30-40 minutes. There is a small trout hatchery en route. The lake isn’t visible until you’re right beside it but when it does come into view you’re in for a treat. You can see why it’s home to the legend of the lady of the lake (of which more later).

If this is as far as you’re going, that;s fine. There’s plenty of space for a picnic before heading back down the path to the car park. But if you’re carrying on, you need to climb the mountain that’s to your right (or to the west) as you face the lake with the path up which you came behind you.

Once you’re at the top the views are spectacular, both of the lake below and the hills and countryside all around. You can see for miles and miles on a clear day – but on a cloudy day you may be able to see no further than a few feet. You are also very exposed to the winds that sweep across the beacons. Follow the ridge around the lake, aiming for Picws Du, the most striking of the ridges in this area.

Keep heading east towards Fan Brycheiniog, where you’ll see a small stone shelter, and from there descend to Llyn y Fan Fawr. Circle the lake in an anti-clockwise direction and from there follow the path back to Llyn y Fan Fach. From there, it’s back down the track to the car park.

According to folklore, a young farmer saw a beautiful woman emerge from the waters of Llyn y Fan Fach. After several attempts he persuaded her to marry him – but she warned him that if he struck her three times she would disappear back into the water, never to return. They had two sons and for a time lived happily at his farm near the Carmarthenshire village of Myddfai.

But, for three different reasons over the years, he struck her and she left him, taking her animals with her. But the sons remained and grew up to become the « Physicians of Myddfai », who became physicians to the English royal court.

The closest village is Llanddeusant. You can find « Llyn y Fan Fach car park » in your sat-nav but, as a general guide, if you’re coming from Cardiff or the south-east it’s best to travel up the A470 towards Brecon then turn west towards Sennybridge. From the west, it’s best to head up the A40 towards Llangadog and Llandovery.