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I planned my own budget UK seaside break — here’s what it really cost | UK | Travel

Can you have a pleasant seaside break on a budget? (Image: Portia Jones)

I love a budget break, and I’m a firm believer that paying full price suggests poor planning. So when I wanted to find a cheap but cheerful UK coastal break, I set to work, looking for off-season deals that don’t compromise on comfort.

Anyone can book a dingy one-star B&B for £30 but it’s far better to find acceptable accommodation that doesn’t cost a fortune. I recently found a coastal bolthole with one of the best ocean views in the UK and a submerged spa with a bubbly whirlpool for under £100 via Booking.com.

As I travel so much, I have Booking.com « Genius Level 3 », the highest loyalty tier, which gives me perks like 20% off stays, free breakfasts and room upgrades. I found a decent « genius deal » for The Cliff Hotel and Spa, which promises panoramic views and indulgent treatments for a spa break by the sea in Cardigan Bay, west Wales.

Having bagged a room for a song, I was also determined to keep other costs down and decided pub teas, flasks of coffee and picnics were the way to go.

I also planned lots of long coastal walks and the Cliff Hotel is well positioned to explore sections of the long-distance Wales Coast Path, the nearby town of Cardigan, and the River Teifi trails in Ceredigion.

Cardigan Bay remains one of Wales’s most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of P

Cardigan Bay remains one of Wales’s most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of Pembrokeshire and the Llŷn Peninsula (Image: Portia Jones)

We packed the car and headed for Cardigan Bay for a few days of much-needed coast walks, whirlpools and cheap eats. The journey was straightforward and free parking was plentiful when we arrived — there’s nothing worse than arriving at a hotel to find ludicrously overpriced parking charges.

Check-in was lively; clearly, the entire county agreed that spa-based recovery was a necessity. When our turn came, we hit a minor hiccup: apparently, one must email ahead to secure access to the spa.

I opted for the ultimate pub classic, Taverners Chicken

The ultimate pub classic, Taverners Chicken (Image: Portia Jones)

After some gentle negotiation it was eventually agreed that, yes, we could use the spa facilities included in the spa break we had actually paid for. The hotel offers a dozen room and suite types, from modest to mortgage-threatening. Many have sea views and private balconies, which are ideal for pretending you’re in a lifestyle Instagram ad. If you’re feeling particularly pleased with yourself, some rooms even come with a private hot tub, perfect for stewing in your own success.

However, we were not feeling particularly flush because, as my husband says, we are « constantly going away ». Thanks to my « genius status », a title I wear with humility and aggressive pride, I’d booked an economy room for us for under £91 via booking.com, with breakfast included.

The room itself was perfectly pleasant, if not photogenically blessed. It was L-shaped and overlooked what I can only assume were the hotel’s less celebrated architectural features. It didn’t quite scream « romantic escape ».

However, it was well equipped with all the usual amenities, such as tea and coffee-making facilities, robes and a hairdryer, and the bed was cosy enough for a restful slumber.

Admittedly, a small pang of envy did strike as I imagined the sea view crowd sipping prosecco on their balconies. But the weather held, and with a glass of wine on the terrace even budget travellers can feel like minor royalty, albeit the sort kept safely away from the actual palace.

The hotel is also well located for a sunset walk, with immediate access to the Ceredigion Coast Path. During our scenic stroll we witnessed a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour as golden hues melted into deep sapphire over the ocean, creating a cinematic scene that would rival the Mediterranean.

As we strolled along the cliff tops it struck me that we were the only ones here taking in this spectacular sunset, with barely another soul in sight.

Perhaps that’s because Cardigan Bay remains one of the UK’s most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of Pembrokeshire and the Llŷn Peninsula.

After a full day of exploring, you'll likely be longing to sink into the hotel’s subterranean spa and rest your weary legs

After a full day of exploring, you’ll likely be longing to sink into the hotel’s subterranean spa and rest your weary legs (Image: The Cliff Hotel & Spa)

In 2023 Time Out magazine even dubbed its main town, Cardigan, a « most underrated » spot. Here, you can experience Wales as its most authentic self, zipping between secluded bays to spot dolphins, trekking the coastal path and feasting on fish and chips in small fishing villages.

The relative remoteness of Ceredigion and its communities’ proud, resilient character have long made this coastline a stronghold of Welsh language and culture. Here you can visit ancient castles, shop for local crafts and try local produce at a food festival.

The Cliff Hotel and Spa is an affordable base for exploring this underrated corner of Wales, and the best part is that coastal hikes and beach visits are free (except for parking charges). It’s also just a short hop from Poppit Sands and the town of Cardigan.

Having filled our flasks with coffee from the room, we set out for a low-cost day by the sea. With blue-flag bathing, a lush bakery and coastal walks, Poppit Sands is my go-to beach in Wales.

This wide, dune-backed beach at the mouth of the River Teifi has all the hallmarks of a brilliant Welsh beach, expansive golden sands, big skies, sweeping estuary views and even dolphin sightings if you’re lucky.

Perched on the dramatic Cardigan Bay coast, this clifftop spa offers panoramic ocean views and indulgent treatments.

Perched on the dramatic Cardigan Bay coast, this clifftop spa offers panoramic ocean views and indulgent treatments. (Image: Portia Jones)

We spent hours here plodding along the coastline, dipping our toes in the bracing sea and hiking along the cliff edge to get the best sea views.

Porpoises and dolphins are often sighted on the stretch of coastal path between Poppit Sands and Strumble, where Cardigan Bay curves around, and the undulating dunes around the beach are also alive with birds, butterflies, and insects.

The marine-life-rich rock pools are perfect for a spot of low-tide exploration, and if you’re into birdwatching, you’ll be in your element. Bring your binoculars and look for guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and kittiwakes.

There are also plenty of amenities here, including paid parking by the shoreline, public toilets, and the brilliant Crwst beachside café and bakery, where you can grab coffee, cakes, and locally made ice cream. If you are happy to spend, I highly recommend the brioche doughnuts.

While we had a picnic, we spotted Crwst’s awesome bacon roll and coffee offer for £5 and vowed to come back the next day.

As I look out over the frothing swells of the Irish Sea, bathed in a warm, honeyed glow, I can’t help but feel a little smug abo

As I look out over the frothing swells of the Irish Sea, bathed in a warm, honeyed glow, I can’t help but feel a little smug about the perfect timing of our evening stroll along the craggy cliffs. (Image: Portia Jones)

After a full day stomping along coastal paths, you’ll likely be longing to sink into the hotel’s subterranean spa and rest your weary legs while relaxing under the soothing starry ceiling.

We arrived early, in case further negotiations were required to secure a whirlpool session. Fortunately, the spa gods smiled upon us, and we were swiftly ushered in to find a bubbling hot tub, steam room, sauna, and hydrotherapy pool all ready to assist our delicate limbs after a day of hiking along the undulating Ceredigion coast.

Determined to make the most of every precious minute of our 60-minute spa window, I tackled the lot: sauna, steam room, hot tub, and heated loungers. If you want to elevate your self-care game even further, the hotel offers spa packages with light lunches and treatments, signature massages, scrubs, mini facials, you name it. Perhaps next time I’ll consider upgrading from budget explorer to spa goddess.

If you aren’t concerned with saving money the hotel offers Carreg at the Cliff where you can indulge in ocean-view dining that’s decidedly swish.

And if you have more time in the area, it’s worth doing the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path

If you have more time in the area, it’s worth doing the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path (Image: Portia Jones)

The main bar and restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto a terrace with sweeping views of Poppit Sands, making it the perfect spot for a sundowner by the sea.

The menus are seasonal so they’ve clearly got fresh, locally sourced ingredients on the brain. They even have the more laid-back Point Bar and Lounge, ideal for a cocktail or two.

Lunch and dinner menus feature classic dishes with a not-so-subtle Welsh twist, including Welsh lamb ballotine, Pembrokeshire sirloin, and perl las linguine.

The charcuterie board is a picky eater’s dream, with a selection of mixed cured meats, peppadews, pickled cheese, cornichons, salsa verde, and focaccia. If you’re on a dinner, bed and breakfast package you’ll get a £30 food allowance per person. 

Wales has an extraordinary 870-mile-long coast path

Wales has an extraordinary 870-mile-long coast path (Image: Portia Jones)

If, like us, you’re in the market for cheaper pub grub than fine dining, never fear. There’s always the option for a solid burger or a good old-fashioned hunter’s chicken in the affordable boozers nearby. We particularly love the Flat Rock Bistro down the road for a more budget-friendly pub tea with a view.

I opted for the ultimate pub classic, taverners’ chicken, at £17.95, and my hungry husband had a burger at £17.95. Pretty typical pub prices for these days, but still cheaper than eating at the hotel, especially if you’ve brought your own Aldi wine to drink in the room.

On reflection, after a relaxing few days away, I would have to say I enjoyed my seaside escape and managed not to spend a fortune. This hotel clearly suits a range of budgets from savvy travellers to big spenders. The commanding ocean views are the main draw for me, though I do wish I’d shelled out a bit more for a sea-view room next time.

The location is superb as Cardigan Bay is a wildly underrated spot, and this hotel offers the perfect base to explore it. A great coastal escape with just enough luxury to make you feel like you’ve indulged, without going overboard. Definitely one to consider for your next trip.

The cost

  • Picnic stash from Aldi: £12 total for sandwiches, crisps, fruit, and a sneaky bottle of wine.
  • Pub tea: Two hearty meals at the Flat Rock Bistro came to £35. No Michelin star, but very filling
  • Bacon roll and coffee deal for two: £5 each for a lush bap and brew.
  • Poppit Sands parking all day: £6
  • The hotel room with breakfast included: £91
  • Grand total? £154 for a spa-tastic coastal mini break that didn’t feel too stingy. Winner, winner, chicken dinner.

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